

Historically, the reasons for unpicking yarn have been both aesthetic and economic. But rarely does the contemporary designer work with materials of such inherent value that time is not considered more valuable. Unpicking fabric to remove flaws, examine the structures involved or possibly recycle precious threads is common. This paper attempts to determine the reasons behind what seems in the twenty-first century to be such a laborious undertaking. The term 'raveled yam' refers to threads that have been unpicked from a piece of woven cloth and rewoven into another.

From these vastly different regions, using a variety of materials, weavers painstakingly unpicked yams from woven fabrics for use in other weavings. The examples cited arrive from a range of cultures and geographies: Indonesia and Nigeria, the Southwest United States and New Zealand. Many of the textiles discussed here were not traded along the Silk Route, but all are representative of the associations that are made with this artery of cultural exchange. The Silk Route has become synonymous with the movement of knowledge that accompanies the trade of objects.
